IGI Set Up and Checkout

 1) Equipment required

   a) IGI plus various IGI parts (slits,filter holders and such--kept in 
      black case)	
   b) Star-1 or suitable guider
   c) Philps Comparison Lamps and Power Supply
   d) For mounting on 107, a 1/2" thick 26" dia. adapter plate.	

 2) Work that can be done prior to moving to and mounting on the telescope

    a) Depending on the detector being used and the observer, the bottom
       spacer may need to be changed.  Below are general rules for setup, but
       the observer should be checked with to avoid and possible mix-up.

       1) If TI2 is being used, the thin spacer is used, plus the 50mm lens.
       2) If TK2 is being used, the thick spacer is used, plus the 85mm lens.

 3) Set-up on the telescope.

       a) Regardless of which telescope IGI is generally mounted with the
          guider box pointing east and the 1/2" spacer on top when mounting
          on the 107".  The spacer is not required on the 82" telescope.

       b) After IGI is mounted, install the various electronics packages.
		
          1) Install the CCD electronics; don't mount the CCD clock driver
             until all modules have been mounted and cabled, as it will
             restrict access to the back of the other modules.  Mount clock
             driver last.
	   2) Mount the CCD detector(TI2 or TK2) and cable.  On the 107", if
                using TI2, mount so that the ccd dewar is pointed toward the
                secondary or so that when the telescope is at the zenith
                the dewar will be vertical.
	   3) Mount Star-1 or whatever TV guider is being used.
			
	      a) Mount Star-1 on the TV guider mounting plate with the 50mm
                 lens and the collimating lens used with IGI and install.
                 Mount cover and focusing screw on IGI's TV guider box.
	      b) Mount Star-1 electronics, cooling system and cable.

	   4) Cabling at IGI.

	      a) Attach IGI's control cable.
 	      b) Attach IGI's plug strip cord to telescope power; on the
                 30", we have had to plug this into one of the outlets on
                 the west side of the dome. There might be bad hum if this
                 is connected to telescope power.
	      c) Attach CCD control cable to the 2910 or DSP.
	      d) Attach Star1's mouse, monitor cable to Star-1's electronics
                 controller.
	      e) Attach N2 purge line to IGI if humidity is high. Be sure the
                 N2 line inside IGI is attached to the plate that the camera
                 lens mounts to. Bottled N2 will have to be used at the 82",
                 36" and the 30".  At the 107", N2 is available at the cass
                 patch panel (JB10).

           5) Cabling at cass patch panel, 107" and 82".

	      a) Attach IGI's control cable to the six pin connector.
	      b) Attach CCD control cable if necessary.
	      c) Attach Star1's cable to the DB25 connector and the BNC
                 to a BNC on the patch panel.
	      d) Attach N2 purge to the proper connection and set flow rate
                 to about 4 cfm at the regulator flowmeter near the west door
                 in the new cass control room.

	   6) Power up.

	      a) Turn on the CCD electronics.
	      b) Turn on IGI's shutter power supply.
	      c) Turn on Star-1's control box and cooling system.
	
 4) Set up in control room

    a) Attach IGI's control box to its cable and attach it to the connector
       that corresponds to the connector on the cass patch panel.  Plug in
       IGI's control box power cord.  Try moving the slit and grism to make
       sure they aren't sticking. The slit/filter holder has been sticky
       in the past.
    b) Attach the DSP cable to the Sun being used.

    c) At the107", attach Star-1's mouse cable to the DB-25 extension and
       attach it to the DB-25 connector in the control room.  Connect a
       monitor to the corresponding BNC in the control room.

 5) Make sure Star-1's monitor is displaying the proper screen. If not, check
    power and cables.  Do a couple of dark exposures to make sure things are
    working ok.  Do a light exposure so you know the shutter is working.

 6) Log onto the Sun

    a) Type cl
    b) Type icex
    c) Type IGI to start the IGI variant of ARGUS.  Argus 410-022 is the
       current version of ARGUS being used on Oberon.

       1) Do an int/d. After the readout has finished, set the contrast and
          scaling so as to see the pixel to pixel variations.  If hum is
          present, try rearranging the cables to eliminate the hum.  There
          seems to be a small amount of hum present with TI2 regardless of 
	  how the cables are arranged.
       2) Do an int to make sure the shutter is operating properly. Be careful
         that you don't blast TI2 if chip has just been cooled.

    d) If everything seems ok, now is a good time to warm up TI2 if it was
       cold when it was mounted.  Set the CCD temperature controller to
       -80 Deg. C and keep ARGUS running to flush out TI2.  Once the temp.
       reaches -80 start it cooling back down.

 7) Once the CCD is at its operating temperature, set up a light source to
    do a noise test.  Using an ND 3.0 in the filter slide and closing the
    mirror cover most of the way will get the light level low enough to do
    a noise test on the 107".

 8) When the noise test is finished and it looks normal, this completes IGI's
    check out.